8th April 2010The day was stunning, warm enough that I didn't need a jacket and at times could dispense even with my hoodie. Birds sang in the trees and hedgerows all along the path, and water of course runs alongside it, at least 95% of the way - sometimes on both sides. I think there is nowhere along the path without trees.
The journey started from my front door, through Riverside Park and under the new Mansbridge Bridge (the 300 year old original bridge still spans the river and was in use up until the 1970s). Across Mansbridge Meadow which is managed for encouraging wildlife, and the path proper beings through the hedge in the top right hand corner. A project to restore the brickwork of the old locks of the canal has just been completed.
Between Southampton and Bishopstoke the path is mainly beaten earth and can be very muddy, even flooded in places.
I chose to cross the Itchen Valley Nature Reserve rather than follow the actual path alongside the M27. The airport I don't mind, although there's no view of it from the path when you eventually come back to it up some steps from the long western edge of the Nature Reserve and over a stile. Birds singing everywhere and brimstone and peacock butterflies flitting about, with the occasional fat bee bumbling along.
Alongside the canal and before the flood, I met a volunteer with the Hampshire County Council who was doing a survey of rare nesting birds along the way. There is a project, funded by the Lottery Fund, to restore the canal and put a proper footpath along from Southampton to Winchester. This is already under way in several places. I daresay the Southampton end will be the last bit to be completed. Both the man and myself wondered how they will get the machinery into that part of the canal; I'm sure they have a plan. And regarding the path, how to make it disabled-friendly with room for a barge-horse (oh, yes, there are plans rumoured) and at the same time keep the dirt-bike and scooter hellions off it!
The nice man warned me about the mud and flood further on and with friendly goodbyes we parted.
I next met a couple of people coming the other way who also warned me abou the 20 metre flooded area. They advised going into the adjacent field to get around it. Did I? Did I heck as like! I have an adventurous spirit and thick waterproof boots.
The views over the flat southern Hampshire countryside, even in early April, is very pretty. Fields becoming greener with budding trees dotted around. The aspect is very open.
The path passes under the railway several times. One of the tunnels was lined with what looked like an upside-down nissan hunt. Past this was the lovely, lovely sewage works at Eastleigh. There was a slight fertilizer-y tang in the air briefly but the towers don't smell bad and they're actually not as unsightly as I'd expected, given their industrial nature. I can see the path becoming badly overgrown with nettles later in the season if no one tends them properly.
Past the works, the path goes round and over the river. In places, either by nature or design the water splashes and races white over unseen objects in the water, sometimes trees or other scrub, but not, I think old prams and tyres.
The path begins to widen out and here are signs of the beginnings of the restoration of the canal itself with the sinking and lining of a channel into which water is being fed from the River Itchen on the other side of the walkway. There is an information panel giving more details near the new bridge and inlet. The path emerges on to a busy road and there is a crossing not far down. Don't use the ATM at the garage close by, it charges. There is an Esso garage further up the road the other way.
Across the road the path continues, excellently laid out past the recreation ground and out into countryside, all along the river bank, meadering with the river's course between Bishopstoke and Otterbourne. There are trees all along the far bank and some fine houses beyond. today, the river was sparkling the sunlight. The only blight on the idyllic scene is a great yellow crane-thing at the railway works and some pylons, but if you keep looking at the river it doesn't matter.
The scene soon changes again beyond another railway bridge. Steep gardens rise from landing stages - although the water is really too narrow for boats; maybe canoes ... The landing stages have been converted into pleasant seating areas, each with its bench or benches. One or two have been made into designer features with plants and ornaments; or with lighting and brightly painted ironwork. All enviable, and the houses look pleasant as well. One garden is "decorated" with old signs: of shops, bus stops, railway signs, etc.
The path meanders through woodland and alongside water and open fields eventually coming to another road to cross at or near Brambridge. Today the path opposite was closed for restoration and a diversion created, which to my mind could have been more clearly sign-posted, however it isn't hard to find the way. Here, I met with another couple who have walked the Itchen Way several times.Having ascertained the diversion we all three set off along the road, fortunately pavemented on one side or the other. They were very pleasant people, however, me being me, I began to long for my solitary state again. As we came to Brambridge Antiques I chose to turn in here while the others continued on their way.
I learned that the gentleman who owns the Antiques workshop is 66, about to retire and a skilled French polisher; that he has found it hard to find someone who is willing to take on a 7-year apprenticeship. Having recently lost my debit card and having no hard cash on me I was in a good position to regret that I couldn't buy anything. He offered a solution but I managed to slide out of that and to say goodbye and continue my journey.
I don't like pavementless lanes that are also busy thoroughfares with a popular Garden Centre along it. However, I used roadwalking sense and politely acknowledged the drivers forced to go around me. the, soon after a narrow white bridge I was able to go on along the path again. There was a sign to say that the path was flooded 500 m on. Well, there was a large puddle to wade through and it was being regarded with some concern by a man pacing undecidedly about it. We had some discussion and I waded on, while he declared his intention of taking off his shoes and socks and paddling through. I didn't see him again.
There was a family of swans just here, one of the youngsters of which tried to swim in a puddle. Good luck with that!
The river splits into two on either side of a "central reservation" full of daffodils and primroses. I passed my erstwhile companions who were having lunch in the Waterworks Memorial Gardens. I waved but they didn't see me. The woods here are owned by Southern Water and KEEP OUT! (Okay, already!)
Where the path turns away from the River for a spell, there is a piece of ground where today were parked two traditional gypsy caravans, and a modern two-man tent with a real campfire smoking away with that lovely acrid woody smell. In the field next were tethered a rather hairy horse, and the shaggiest pony I have ever seen! I worry about gypsy horses. Further round the path there is a large field beside the railway where were tethered a few horses, but they all had large water buckets. A little further on is a farm and the railway looms right over you on its great bank.
The path goes back down alongside the river and across a cul-de-sac of about half a dozen cottages and then it runs down behind some lovely houses into Shawford. There was the Bridge Inn which does lovely baked potatoes, but not having any cash on me and not hungry anyway, I pushed on now through known country.
The renovators have been here, too. The path has been improved, the riverbank tidied and replanted to encourage water creatures such as voles. Where the houses end there is more evidence of renovation on the far bank: new wooden bridges stand isolated here and there along no path, and water is being let out through channel under the bridges, presumably to feed the renovated canal.
The renovators have been here, too. The path has been improved, the riverbank tidied and replanted to encourage water creatures such as voles. Where the houses end there is more evidence of renovation on the far bank: new wooden bridges stand isolated here and there along no path, and water is being let out through channel under the bridges, presumably to feed the renovated canal.
The path was nice and clean today, but with the summer coming on, the nettles and other plants will start to encroach. Still, the nettles attract butterflies and the other plants afford shelter to the river creatures. And I don't like wearing shorts in any case.
And so alongside the water meadows, under the M3, to a choice. The watermeadows of St Cross; or around St Catherine's Hill; or over it.
I miss the Ups of last year's Lakeland holiday. I choose to go over St Catherine's Hill. I loved it, and my legs did it! They will probably hate me tomorrow.
Once over St Catherine's I went along the path that runs alongside the riverside houses and the quicker way into Winchester, missing the Saxon Gate and the Cathedral, which had been my original intention had I gone past St Cross. However, I reached the statue of King Alfred and I had achieved the goal. And so to the railway station - with a brief diversion into Waterstone's to pick up a new book.
I left home at 10 am and was at King Alf's statue by 3pm. A walk I should like to do again in the fullness of summer, bearing in mind that it might be overgrown by then and not being fully renovated, maybe impassible in places.
Take some shears.
